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Shakespeare's allure

July 13, 2011

The Bard has arrived in a small, impoverished town in eastern Hungary. Organizers hope Shakespeare's universal allure will draw tourists to the region.

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A scene from 'Romeo and Juliet' from the 2011 Shakespeare Festival in Gyula, Hungary
Shakespeare speaks many languagesImage: Zoltán Kiss

"Who is in love?" a man asked the audience on a hot, humid evening. Many hands rose among spectators sitting around the stage in the local Chamber Theater in the small Hungarian town of Gyula. "And who is in a hopeless love situation?" Then, two young, good-looking actors came forward and introduced themselves: "I am Romeo." "I am Juliet."

It was the start of an interactive performance of the Bard's most famous play as part of an 11-day Shakespeare festival running through July 17. Cramped in the tiny theater, the young lovers Romeo and Juliet are caught between two worlds as their families feud over their marriage.

Eventually, the love-stricken teenagers commit suicide, dying dramatically in each other's arms. At least that appeared to be the case, briefly, in Gyula where the couple and aspiring actors of the School Theater group received a long ovation from those who came to this free performance.

"In real life we're just very good friends," said 21-year-old actress Renata Kondasz, who plays Juliet, of her co-star.

The role of Juliet wasn't easy for the sparkling eyed Hungarian actress. "In the beginning, Juliet seemed so different than me. But as she matures, she gets closer to my heart," explained Kondasz.

Opportunity for improvement

For Romeo, otherwise known as Szabolcs Hernadi, 27, performing in Gyula is a special experience. "It's a great joy to play in an impoverished region for people who otherwise would never have the money to go visit a theater," he told Deutsche Welle.

That's exactly why the chief organizer of the Shakespeare Festival 2011, Jozsef Gedeon, brought them to this 800-year-old town which is home to just 33,000 people. "We want everyone to see this," he commented.

A scene from 'Romeo and Juliet' from the 2011 Shakespeare Festival in Gyula, Hungary
The 'Romeo and Juliet' production is set in modern timesImage: Zoltán Kiss

Gedeon is also director of the nearby Gyula Castle Theater, nestled in the courtyard of Central and Eastern Europe's only remaining intact brick fortress. It's where 29-year old Vera Sipos and others gather for their daring, musical and often semi-nude interpretation of Shakespeare's "Troilus and Cressida," a love and power struggle during the legendary Trojan War in Ancient Greece.

"It's not easy to perform in the fortress," said Sipos. "You have to work hard to keep the energy inside the walls. Sometimes it's very hot, sometimes it's raining. And there are flies."

Passion for performing

Though the performances last for three hours, Sipos said she feels "more energized at the end of this Shakespeare play than at the beginning" because of the positive effect it has on the audience.

The fortress is filled to capacity, with wine and mineral water available to cool down the crowd who paid around 5 euros ($7) to see the show. Girls in Renaissance-style dresses greet them at an ancient entrance near a bridge.

"We can play Shakespeare without putting up decor. It's all here," added castle director Gedeon with a smile.

This coming Sunday, the festival will enjoy a world premiere when director Oskaras Korsunovas and his Vilnius City Theater group perform "Miranda" for the first time, a play based on Shakespeare's "The Tempest." Gedeon is pleased that the theater troop chose the unlikely town of Gyula to premiere the work.

Portrait of Shakespeare (1564-1616)
Can the 16th-century playwright boost a poor Hungarian town?Image: picture-alliance / imagestate/HIP

Shakespeare for tourists

Hungary's cash-strapped government managed to scrape together 55 million forints (208,000 euros) for the 11-day festival, with the remaining 55 million forints coming from the local municipality, said Mihaly Galbacs, Gyula's deputy mayor for financial matters, who also happens to be a fan of "Romeo and Juliet."

"I hope this cultural event will help boost other sectors as well," said Galbacs. Although Gyula also boasts attractions like spa baths and Miami Vice-style boats chasing each other on the Feher-Koros River, tourism isn't quite what it used to be.

More than two decades ago, under the communist regime, some one million tourists used to visit the town and region annually. Last year, only half that number showed up, according to the local tourism organization. With bumpy roads leading up to the town and the nearest airport some 120 kilometers (75 miles) away, Gyula has a few strikes against it, said Galbacs.

"Of course Hungary is going through a huge economic crisis. That is especially true in this region near the Romanian border," added the deputy mayor. "With seven-percent unemployment we are doing better than other nearby areas, yet many young people leave. We hope to keep them here - the Shakespeare festival can help with that."

Author: Stefan J. Bos, Gyula, Hungary

Editor: Kate Bowen