A Roasted Desert

German bakers have been testing their skills in the kitchen for over 200 years by making the labor-intensive Baumkuchen, which some call the "king of cakes" and a test of a pastry chef's skill.

"The tree cake is a sign of a guild among the confectioners," said Bettina Hennig of the Salzwedeler Baumkuchen factory.

When created according to the strictest historical standards, a baker starts with a spit over an open flame and adds thin layers of batter to the spit, allowing each one to turn golden brown before adding more batter. This process is normally repeated between 10 and 20 times.

The cake's roots lay with the ancient Greeks, who used to bake unique bread in this manner. Later, the Romans took over the procedure and brought it to Germany in the 15th century. These days, however, the cake is often made in conventional ovens, a process that changes the cake's traditional shape but makes the baking easier for the modern cook.

Once cut into wedges, the inside of a spit-roasted cake appears like the age-lines of a tree, hence the name. Although cutting through the rings is more amusing than cutting each ring separately, the latter is preferred, in order for the cake to unfold its flavor best.

Today, Baumkuchen can be enjoyed in various forms. It can be made into rings, coated with chocolate or filled with fruit. Certain German regions have their own tree cakes, such as the Cottbuser Baumkuchen and Salzwedler Baumkuchen. The cake is also often used as a wedding cake.

Unlike most other cakes, baking powder or baking soda must not be used. The long baking time and the glaze make the cake non-perishable, which allows its export to the USA and Japan, where the Baumkuchen is among the favorite pastries, simply called Baum, or "tree."